Monterey
Monterey Peninsula juts out at the bottom of Monterey Bay and has
the city of Monterey at the top of the peninsula and Carmel at the
bottom.
Monterey Bay is one of the world's richest and most varied marine
environments. It boasts dense kelp forests and a diverse range of
marine life, including mammals like sea otters, seals and sea
lions, elephant seals, dolphins and whales (see whale
watching).Monterey is located at the base of Monterey Bay. During
the drive down from San Jose, midway is an area called "Moss
Landing" (see Whole Enchilada). Moss Landing marks the center of
Monterey Bay and starting just a few hundred yards offshore the
Monterey Canyon plummets to a depth of over 10,000ft. In summer the
upwelling currents carry cold water from this deep submarine
canyon, sending a rich supply of nutrients up toward the surface
level to feed the bay's diverse marine life. The frigid currents
also account for the bay's generally low water temperatures and fog
that often blankets the peninsula until mid-August. The towns of
Monterey Bay combine the somewhat funky, beachcomber aspects of
California's culture with the state's more refined tendencies. Past
and present merge gracefully here
Monterey itself was once a bustling town until the Gold Rush of
1849 drained most of the population leaving it a forgotten city.
That is until Southern Pacific Railroad entrepeneurs built the
luxurious Hotel del Monte and wealthy San Franciscans discovered
Monterey as a convenient getaway. The former hotel is now a Navy
Post Grad School. Around that sametime, fisherman began to
capitalize on the teeming marine life in Monterey Bay and the first
sardine canneries soon opened. By the 1930's Cannery Row was
"Sardine Capital of the World", but overfishing and climatic
changes made the sardines suddenly disappear, causing the
industry's sudden collapse in the 1950's. Modern Monterey is an
enormously popular and heavily visited city for it's grand views
and bit of history.
Cannery
Row
John Steinbeck's novel
Cannery Row immortalized the
sardine-canning business that Monterey lived on for the first
half of the 20th century. He describes the Cannery Row as 'a
poem, a stink, a grating noise, a quality of light, a tone, a
habit, a nostalgia, a dream.' Nowadays, Cannery Row is a
tourist's destination of restaurants, bars and souvenir shops.
At the far end of the row you'll find the Monterey
Aquarium.
Monterey Aquarium
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picture
This is an amazing aquarium, built on the site of what was the
city's largest sardine cannery. You'll encounter countless
aquactic denizens from slow moving star fish to animated sea
lions and otters. All galleries are great but the best is the
"Jellies: Living Art" Exhibit.
17-Mile Drive
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see larger image
This is a spectacularly scenic drive is highly reccommended for a
good look at the natural beauty of Monterey Peninsula and a sneak
peak at about 6 top Golf Courses (including Pebble Beach). 17-mile
drive is a state park, open sunrise to sunset and has an $8.50 fee
per carload for entrance into the park. Entry is easy from Highway
1 there are many signs. Upon entering you receive a map with
detailed stopping points that boast great views and historical
comments (FYI - skip the ghost tree). The 17 miles take you in a
loop and along the way you encounter sea lions, squirrels (take
peanuts), $12 million dollar homes and gorgeous views. You can stop
at the end to use the lavatory and buy picnic sandwiches, beer or
wine. Bicycle rentals are available for those athletic types.
Robert Louis Stevenson used this area as inspiration for
Treasure Island
Carmel-by-the-Sea
Normally referred to as "Carmel" for short. You may or may not
recognize the name as it was recently made popular when Clint
Eastwood became mayor (he is no longer mayor, but does own a
restaurant). Spectacular coastal scenery and a colorful history all
come together here. Carmel began as a planned seaside resort in the
1880s and quickly established a reputation as a bohemian retreat.
The artistic flavor survives in tons of galleries that line the
streets. Carmel has picturesque homes, impressive coastal frontage
and upscale shopping. The towns manicured appearance is ensured by
strict local bylaws, even public phones, garbage cans and newspaper
vending boxes are quaintly shingled. Carmel Beach, an easy walk
from downtown shops, has sparkling white sands and magnificent
sunsets
Point Lobos State Park
About 4 miles south of Carmel, we have never personally been into
the park, but do hear great things. It's coastline, like most of
this area, is beautifully rocky. It was named in spanish as "Point
of the Wolves" because of the howls from the resident sea
lions.
Drive To Big Sur The Drive between Carmel and Big Sur is a
20 minute drive, but we've been there enough to give you a guide
line about when and where to stop along the way.
River
Inn
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picture
This is a great little pit stop on the way to Big Sur. Normally
you have to use the lavatory and it's a great setting. You can
get a glass of wine and sit in the river chairs. We'd call it
more of a creek, being that it's no deeper than a foot.
Rocky Point
Restaurant
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This place is also an amazing stop between Carmel and Big
Sur... So much that we reccommend you stop on the way BACK. The
sun will be setting towards the ocean for unbelievable
backdrop. Sit on the outside tiered deck and have a shrimp
cocktail (they're good) and a drink. We don't reccommend a full
dinner because it's pricey and we found the meal only adaquate
but if your looking for a rest stop with spectacular views and
enough food to tide your hunger over, this is it!! We've spent
several afternoons with a toddy and some hors derves. The
restaurant is about a mile before the Bixby Bridge (heading
SOUTH).
Bixby Bridge

A much photographed Big Sur Landmark, it is one of the world's
highest single span bridges at 714ft long and 260ft high.
Completed in 1932, it was built by prisoners eager to get time
off their sentences. Before the bridge was built travelers had
to drive 14 miles inland on Old Coast Road (still navigable
today with a sturdy car and a high clearance)
Big Sur
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see larger picture
Big Sur is more of an experience rather than one tangible place and
it's raw beauty is awe inspiring. You can get there by following
Highway 1 south of Carmel for about 26 miles. There are no traffic
lights, banks, gas stations or shopping centers (of course we
scouted out where to stop for a great view and a glass of wine). I
REALLY reccommend driving through this area. Car is the best way to explore
the hairpin turns, remember to take your time and pull over for the
rugged beauty and stunning vistas (there are many turn offs along
the way). Go during daylight as you are unable to see anything at
night
For Those Who Dare To Go Farther
There really are great things to see and do farther south, but if
you want to see and do those things we reccommend that you get an
early start on your day. You don't have to take Highway 1 both
south and north, we suggest taking Highway 1 for the scenic route
and State Route 101 to do the "fast route". Note that there are
only 2 access roads to 101 from Highway 1 -> Montery 68 to 101
and in San Simeon take 46 towards Paso Robles and get on 101
North.If you go all the way to the Hearst Castle it's better to
take 101 one of the ways (it's a good 90 minute drive on 101 to
Hearst Castle and a good 3.5 hours via Highway 1)
Sand Dollar Beach or Jade Cove
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Salmon Creek Trail & Waterfall
Elephant Seal View Points
Hearst Castle